New Zealand’s Queen Charlotte Track
If there is such a thing as the ultimate cross-country mountain bike ride, then surely the Queen Charlotte Track has to be up there with the best that NZ can offer!
If there is such a thing as the ultimate cross-country mountain bike ride, then surely the Queen Charlotte Track has to be up there with the best that NZ can offer!
The Queen Charlotte Track (QCT) offers a very unique riding experience. Firstly, it takes three days to complete, making it an ideal long weekend getaway. Secondly, you will be thrust headlong into one of NZ’s most beautiful geographic wildernesses. Thirdly, the QCT offers something for all kinds of mountain bikers irrespective of skill and discipline.
Whether you’re a weekend warrior or a full on DH rebel – there will be riding to suit everybody’s tastes on this northern tip of New Zealand’s south island. The track stretches between Queen Charlotte and Keneperu sounds. It is 71-km in length from the start point at the histpric Ship Cove to the finish in Anakiwa and offers stunning views along the skyline, coastal forests and historic bays.
Julian and I took a very leisurely three days to complete the route from Ship Cove to Anakiwa but there are riders that complete the traverse in two days.
Day 1 | Ship Cove to Punga Cove 26.5 KM
The QCT starts from historic Ship Cove first visited by Captain Cook in 1770 on his ship Endeavour.
To get there from Picton requires the services of the Endeavour Express water taxi, phone +64 3 573 545. The regular service departs Picton for Punga Cove and Endeavour Resort daily.
From the back breaking climb out of Ship Cove we follow the skyline for 25km around Resolution Bay and into the Endeavor Inlet, our reward for the climb is the fast flowing single-track carving it’s way along the spine of the Charlotte Sound. A welcoming beer at the Furneaux Lodge is a must and even more of a must is attempting to ride the wire bridge a short distance after!
The decent in to Punga Cove is a rooty slippery roller coaster of a ride which can really test even the most advanced mountain biker. We hired a twin chalet at Punga Cove resort, there is a great restaurant and the view from the bar deck is simply breathtaking – right on the sounds!
Day 2 | Punga Cove to Portage 20.5 KM
The next day starts with a steep climb out to Keneperu Saddle to get you set for the toughest riding of the three days. The landscape becomes more exposed as we approach 450m in height throughout the course of the day. The views high up on the ridge offer breath taking views of the sounds, both to the north and to the south.
The rain can and did creep in, so it is a good idea to pack waterproof jackets and gloves. Layers are good too, the temperature can drop rapidly. Tight & twisty single track snakes its way up and down the ridges of the QCT burning smiles for miles into the faces of those who ride it.
The highlight of the second day is undoubtedly the descent into Portage. From Black Rock shelter, a popular place to meet with other cyclist and exchange the odd yarn about the track, the trail continues to climb a little before dropping like a stone into Portage Bay. The super fast single track seems to go on forever, weaving, accelerating, braking, pedalling, and dropping in this on going cycle.
We opted to camp on the second day, pitching a tent at Cowshed Bay campground. The local Weka birds are not shy when it comes to tourists on their patch. One such bird tried with near success to steal Julian’s bike from right in front of him! The camp ground has toilet facilities and a water tank – you can use the bar/restuarant at the Portage Resort, there is even a shop to stock up on Gatorade and lollies for the final day’s riding!
The resort in Portage is very polular with weddings and receptions and gets booked up early so to secure a room you should book well in advance.
Day 3 | Portage to Anakiwa 20 KM & Ferry to Picton
Our final day starts with the toughest climb of the three days. By now I am starting to feel tired and the climb is slippery after the rain fall the day before. The trail is like clay under foot and each step forward throws you half a step back, it’s pretty hard work.
The tyres just can’t grip in this mud and I have to walk out, no surprise to my Kiwi riding pals as I do have a reputation as a great walker on the mountain bike trails!
As you drop into Waterfall Bay and on to Anakiwa through the sheltered pine forests you feel like you are flying, the helter skelter ride that is this part of the ride just rocks! We had smiles for miles with the fastest single track of the weekend ahead of us.
This ride is just so much fun! Racing through the pine forests and skimming my way around the single track I forgot about the world outside, the office and the city.
Although only three hours from Welly, you really do feel a million miles away from it all here on the QCT. May be because of the water taxi making the QCT just ever so slightly out of reach for the hoards of mountain bikers to get to.
May be it’s because the views are out of this world or may be it’s because the riding is just so damn good. Whatever the reason, it doesn’t really matter; the QCT should go down as one of the top NZ legendary tracks.
Photos from the QCT can be found here
View Queen Charlotte Track in a larger map
Useful Gear:
- Sturdy waterproof day pack
- Waterproof jacket
- Chain lube
- Credit card
- First Aid kit
- Tent for the second night at Cowshed Bay
- Spare tubes
- Multi Tool
- Map of the route although it’s hard to get lost
- Sunblock
